streusel

Toasted oat and hazelnut banana bread

Posted on by Ruth
toasted oat and hazelnut banana bread

Do you have a house banana bread? You know, the one that’s comfy like your favorite t-shirt. You’ve made it so many times that the recipe is committed to memory, and will never let you down. I do — it’s the banana bread in my cookbook; it’s whole grain, and so easy my kids can make it mostly unsupervised.

Today’s toasted oat and hazelnut banana bread recipe is…not a t-shirt recipe. It’s more like the LBD of banana bread, that fancy thing that you keep in your closet for special occasions. I mean, there’s a mixer involved. And toasted flour! And hazelnuts! And let’s not forget the streusel! But hopefully it’s worth keeping around; because like the LBD, I think this recipe will make you look good and never let you down.

toasted oat and hazelnut banana bread

Toasted Oat Flour

I love sneaking oats into baked goods for taste and nutrition. While you can use oats plain, soaked, or even after cooked into a porridge, this time I’m adding oats as a flour — basically, oats ground into a flour consistency. Oat flour behaves similarly to wheat flour so it’s a great ingredient to try swapping in to your favorite recipes. It’s readily available at regular supermarkets and online these days (I like Oak Manor brand in Canada), though you can also make your own by grinding rolled oats in a high speed blender or grain mill (I own and love my NutriMill — not sponsored).

But wait — there’s more! We’re going to toast the oat flour to emphasize its nutty quality. Toasting flour is just like toasting nuts or spices — for small quantities, I like heating it in a dry skillet until it browns and smells like popcorn. Make sure to stir constantly as the grains can quickly scorch.

If you can’t track down oat flour, other whole grains like spelt or einkorn would work nicely in this bread too!

Roasting hazelnuts

I think of hazelnuts as a fancy nut. To me, they make baked goods taste a little luxurious and unexpected. Like any nut, hazelnuts can go rancid quickly so I recommend buying only as much as you need and/or storing extras in the freezer.

Sometimes you can buy hazelnuts pre-blanched and roasted; but if you’re starting with raw hazelnuts you’ll need to roast them to remove the skins and develop the flavor. I do this in the oven at 325F for 15-20 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the skins noticeably darken and the nuts are fragrant. While the nuts are still warm, wrap them in a lint-free towel and let them steam until cool enough to handle, then rub the skins off as best you can. It’s ok if you can’t get every trace off; just do your best as too much skin will make your baked goods taste bitter.

Praline paste

OK, last unique ingredient: praline paste. It sounds fancy, but basically it’s just roasted nuts and caramelized sugar ground up into a paste. Yes, it tastes as amazing as it sounds! You can buy praline paste at some specialty food stores or online (it’s often made with part hazelnuts, part almonds); or — you guessed it — you can make your own. There are a few different methods out there but I like to make the roasted nuts and caramelized sugar separately, then blend them together until smooth. I used a 1:1 ratio by weight (i.e. 100g roasted nuts and 100g caramelized sugar).

For the caramelized sugar, all you need to do is heat the sugar in a heatproof skillet until it turns a beautiful shade of amber, then pour it onto a silicone lined sheet to set (be careful, it’s HOT). If you’re using the dry method for caramel (no water), you can stir the sugar to ensure it melts evenly. If you prefer the wet method (a little water added at the start to help the sugar melt evenly), just stir at the very beginning to make sure all the sugar is wet, then leave it alone to do its thing. It really doesn’t matter what method you use — whichever is more comfortable for you.

Once both the caramel is set and cooled, break it into shards. Place the caramel shards, roasted nuts, and a good pinch of salt into a high speed blender or food processor, then grind until you get a powder. Scrape the sides of your machine down, then continue grinding until you get a creamy, smooth paste (this may take 5-10 minutes). Transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature or in the fridge (bring to room temp before using). The oil will separate after sitting so just give it a good stir to recombine when needed.

How else can you use praline paste?

  • Spread it as a topping on toast, crepes, waffles, ice cream, etc.
  • Swirl it into brownies or cheesecake batter.
  • Use it to flavor buttercream or whipped cream!

You can also use this technique with other nuts: pecan praline? Pistachio praline? Peanut praline? Yes, yes, and yes!

Yes, you could sub the praline paste with something like Nutella. However, I really like the pure hazelnut flavor in this loaf, sans the distraction of chocolate.

Now on to the recipe!

toasted oat and hazelnut banana bread slice

Toasted Oat and Hazelnut Banana Bread

Yield: 1 9" loaf
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour 5 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

A leveled up banana bread with a nutty hazelnut streusel, toasted oat flour, and swirls of praline paste.

Ingredients

For the toasted oat flour:

  • 115g oat flour*

For the hazelnut-oat streusel:

  • 25g all-purpose flour
  • 25g toasted oat flour
  • 42g granulated sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • Pinch of cinnamon
  • 42g unsalted butter, cubed at room temperature
  • 20g roasted hazelnuts, chopped

For the toasted oat and hazelnut banana bread:

  • 165g all purpose flour
  • 85g toasted oat flour
  • 290g very ripe banana, mashed (about 3 medium)
  • 57g sour cream, at room temperature
  • 115g unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 190g light brown sugar
  • 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 3/4 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 40g neutral oil
  • 2 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
  • 65g roasted hazelnuts, chopped
  • 80g praline paste** or Nutella (optional)

Instructions

Make the toasted oat flour:

  1. Sprinkle the oat flour in an even layer in a medium skillet. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the flour turns a shade darker and smells like popcorn. Transfer to a heat-safe bowl and let cool completely before using. (Note: this makes a little more flour than the recipe calls for to account for moisture weight loss and bits left in the pan, etc.)


Make the hazelnut oat streusel:

  1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, sugar, salt, and cinnamon.
  2. Scatter the cubes of the butter over the top and rub them into the dry ingredients until moist clumps form. Fold in the hazelnuts.
  3. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.


Make the toasted oat and hazelnut banana bread:

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) with arack in the center. Line a 9 x 4-inch (23 x 10-cm) Pullman pan or loaf pan with a parchment paper sling, leaving about 3 inches (7.5 cm) of overhang on the long sides for easy removal. Lightly grease the pan and parchment.
  2. In a small bowl, whisk together the all purpose flour and toasted oat flour.
  3. In a separate bowl or measuring jug, whisk together the mashed banana and sour cream until smooth.
  4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or using a hand mixer), combine the butter, sugar, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and cinnamon. Mix on low to combine, then turn the speed up to medium. Cream until the mixture is visibly lightened and fluffy, 4-5 minutes. Scrape down the paddle and sides of the bowl several times during this process.
  5. With the mixer on low, stream in the oil. Turn the mixer up to medium and mix until very smooth and emulsified. Scrape down the paddle and sides of the bowl.
  6. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla and beat well. Scrape down the paddle and sides of the bowl.
  7. With the mixer on low, add the flour and banana-sour cream mixture in five additions, beginning and ending with the flour. When a few streaks of flour remain, add the hazelnuts, mixing just enough to evenly distribute them. Use a flexible spatula to fold from the bottom of the bowl a few times to make sure the batter is well-mixed.
  8. Spoon about 1/3 of the batter into the prepared pan and level with an offset spatula. Dollop about 1/3 of the praline paste or Nutella on top. Repeat the process twice more. Swirl a chopstick or knife gently through the batter to create swirls of praline. Sprinkle the streusel evenly over the top.
  9. Bake for about 60 to 75 minutes, or until the bread feels set
    on the top and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean or with just
    a few moist crumbs (but no wet batter).
  10. Remove the bread from the oven. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and cool completely on a wire rack. Store leftover bread, tightly wrapped, at room temperature for several days.



    Notes

    *Oat flour is available at many grocery and specialty food stores, or online through retailers such as Bob's Red Mill or Oak Manor Farms.

    **Praline paste is available in gourmet/specialty food stores or online. Alternatively, you can make your own by caramelizing 100g granulated sugar, then pouring onto a silicone lined baking sheet to set until completely hardened. Break into shards and place in a blender or food processor with 100g roasted and skinned hazelnuts (or equal parts hazelnuts and almonds) and a pinch of salt. Blend until a smooth paste forms. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

    © Ruth
    Category: Cakes

    Coffee date squares

    Posted on by Ruth

    I’ve been leaning hard into nostalgic bakes lately; and these coffee date squares are my latest crush. An oat-flecked bar cookie with a layer of sweet date filling, date squares make a perfect sweet bite alongside your warm beverage of choice.

    Date squares are popular coffeehouse fare here in Canada. Apparently in some parts of the country they’re known as “matrimonial cake” — possibly because the varying flavors and textures mirror the complexities of marriage (I know…it’s a stretch), or maybe because they were frequently served at weddings.

    Name speculations aside, these old-fashioned treats are simple to make and enjoy. I’ve added coffee to help balance the sweetness of the dates, but these bars just call for personalization. Try simmering the dates in a mixture of water and orange or lemon juice (add some orange zest to the crumble if you want to play up the citrus notes!), or swap in your favorite medley of warming spices.

    A few notes:
    • I use a food processor to make the crumble mixture for speed’s sake, but if you can also rub the butter in by hand. In general, I prefer using cold butter (vs. softened or melted) for crumb bars and streusels as I find the crumbs hold their shape well and have my ideal firm-but-tender texture after baking.
    • If you don’t want to use nuts, you can swap in an additional 45 g (1/2 c) oats instead (add them at the end with the rest of the oats).
    • You can use plain all-purpose flour for the crumble, but I think whole grain flour adds extra character and flavor to these bars! I’m a big fan of Flourist sifted Red Fife in baked goods, but you could try white whole-wheat, a mix of all-purpose and whole grain, or all whole grain for a heartier texture.

    Coffee date squares

    Makes one 8×8 pan

    Ingredients:

    For the coffee date filling:

    • 300g (1 3/4 c) dried Medjool dates, pitted and chopped
    • 200g (3/4 c plus 2 Tbsp) freshly brewed coffee
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda

    For the crust and crumb:

    • 188g (1 1/2 c) flour (I used Flourist sifted Red Fife)
    • 45g (1/3 c) toasted walnuts or hazelnuts
    • 1 tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt
    • 100g (1/2 c) light brown sugar
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda
    • 1 tsp finely ground coffee
    • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
    • 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
    • 1/4 tsp ground cardamom
    • 200g (14 Tbsp) unsalted butter, cubed and cold
    • 90g (1 c) rolled oats (preferably regular, not quick)

    Method:

    1. Preheat the oven to 350F with a rack in the middle. Line an 8×8 square pan with two criss-crossed pieces of parchment paper, leaving a few inches of overhang on all edges. (This makes it easy to remove the squares from the pan later.)
    2. Make the coffee date filling: In a medium saucepan, combine the chopped dates and coffee. Cook over medium heat, stirring and mashing the dates frequently, until the dates have broken down and the mixture is thick and relatively smooth, about 10 minutes. Add the baking soda and stir to combine thoroughly. Scrape filling into a bowl and let cool while you continue with the recipe.
    3. Make the crust and crumb: In the bowl of a food processor, add the flour, nuts, salt, sugar, baking soda, ground coffee, and spices. Pulse several times until well combined. Scatter the cold butter over the top and pulse until the mixture starts to form small clumps. Add the oats and pulse just a few times to incorporate — you don’t want the oats to completely break down as they add a nice texture.
    4. Assemble and bake the squares: Transfer approximately 2/3 (400g) of the crumb mixture to the prepared pan. Use a small glass or measuring cup to press the crumbs firmly and evenly across the bottom. Bake for 10 minutes, or until just set.
    5. Use a small offset spatula to spread the date filling evenly over the par-baked base (no need to let the base cool) and sprinkle the remaining crumbs evenly over the top. Bake until the top is golden brown, about 22-30 minutes. Let cool completely before slicing — I find chilling the bars in the fridge for a couple hours makes slicing a breeze. Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 5 days or freeze for longer storage.

    Grape Ricotta Danishes with Walnut Thyme Streusel

    Posted on by Ruth

    This post is sponsored by Bake from Scratch as part of their Better Baking Academy with Bob’s Red Mill. As always, all opinions expressed are my own.

    grape ricotta danishes

    Grape ricotta danishes with walnut thyme streusel are the buttery-creamy-fruity-nutty pastry of your dreams! These homemade danishes are perfect for a weekend brunch or holiday spread and are so fun to make.

    Better Baking Academy

    I’m sharing these pastries with you as part of the year-long Better Baking Academy put on by Bake from Scratch and Bob’s Red Mill! Every month this year, this free educational series has been diving deep into different baking techniques — think macarons, pate a choux, and pie dough. Through detailed tutorials and clear recipes, Better Baking Academy aims to equip the home baker with a well-rounded set of skills that will set you up for a lifetime of baking success. Enroll in the Better Baking Academy now to access all the modules and recipes!

    This month’s Better Baking Academy module is on fall danishes and lamination technique. While lamination may sound a little intimidating, let me assure you that it is very doable at home (there’s even a whole chapter on laminated pastries in my upcoming cookbook!). Learning how to laminate will open up a huge world of delicious baked goods — croissants, danishes, puff pastry, kouign amann, and so on. Like any other technique, lamination just takes some patience and practice. Here are a few pointers to help you on your way.

    danish dough ingredients

    Five Tips for lamination success

    • Use good quality ingredients. Now is the time to splurge on fancy European-style butter (at least 82% fat)! Not only will good butter make your pastries taste better, but the actual lamination process will be much easier — European-style butter is less prone to cracking due to its low water/high fat content. Using a strong, good-quality flour is key as well — Bob’s Red Mill Organic Unbleached All-Purpose Flour is a great choice. It has a higher protein content than a lot of other all-purpose flours, which creates a strong dough that can withstand rolling and shaping and pastries that will rise high in the oven.
    • Plan your bake. There’s actually not a ton of hands-on work required for laminated pastries, but you will need to plan for chilling and proofing times throughout the process. Figure out when you want to bake the pastries and work backwards from there to budget your time. I suggest reading the recipe through completely a couple times in advance, and trying to visualize each step before starting. The more familiar you are with the steps before you begin, the more enjoyable the entire process will be.
    • Measure carefully. Pull out your kitchen scale and ruler — pastries like precision! For best results, weigh your ingredients and measure carefully when rolling out and cutting. Roll your dough to the specified dimensions, and keep your edges and corners neat and sharp — this will help you achieve uniform, professional-looking pastries!
    • Manage temperature. Properly managing the temperature of your ingredients is critical for successful lamination. Your butter and dough need to be at similar temperatures before you try to combine them via lamination. They should cool but pliable — if too cold, the butter will shatter when you try to roll it out; and if too warm, the butter will melt into the dough. Test your butter block before starting lamination — it should be pliable enough to bend without breaking, but cool enough to easily release from the parchment paper. If you can feel the butter starting to crack as you roll, stop and let it soften for 5-10 minutes before proceeding. If the dough starts to feel sticky/melty/warm, stop and refrigerate for 5-10 minutes and try again.
    • Proof fully. Once you’ve shaped your pastries, proof them in a warm and humid environment. The oven with the light on and a dish of warm water on the shelf below is a great spot. (Just make sure the temperature doesn’t get above 80F degrees or the butter will melt!) When fully proofed, the pastries should look very puffy and jiggly with very visible layers. When properly proofed pastry hits the hot oven, steam from the butter will cause the layers to separate and create that beautiful flaky texture. Underproofed pastries tend to leak butter during baking and won’t have a light final texture.

    Now, about these grape ricotta danishes with walnut thyme streusel! I decided to go with a classic coil shape that is simple but gorgeous. Also very important — it allows for plenty of filling! These danishes start with a ricotta filling spiked with honey and black pepper (one of my favorite punchy flavor combos!), which is then topped with fresh grapes. I used a seedless concord variety which were just perfect — after roasting in the oven they’re intensely jammy, but still retain some texture. I think blueberries, cranberries or even thinly sliced pears would work nicely here too — but do try the grapes if you can!

    shaping danishes 1

    These danishes are generously sprinkled with a nutty streusel before hitting the oven. You’ll never find me saying no to streusel — not only does it taste delicious, but it adds a crisp layer of texture that complements the creamy ricotta and juicy fruit.

    shaping danishes 3
    shaping danishes 4

    For a final bit of bakery style shine, brush your danishes with a little warm honey as soon as they’re out of the oven. Wait just long enough so that you don’t burn your tongue, then enjoy! These danishes are *chef’s kiss* perfect still warm from the oven and honestly so satisfying to make.

    grape ricotta danishes 2

    Grape Ricotta Danishes with Walnut Thyme Streusel

    Makes 12 danishes | Danish base recipe adapted from Bake From Scratch

    Ingredients:

    For the Danish dough:
    • 4  cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour, divided
    • ⅓ cup (67 grams) plus 1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar, divided
    • 1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt
    • 2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast
    • 1 cup (240 grams) whole milk
    • 1 cup (227 grams) plus 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, softened and divided
    • 2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature and divided
    For the ricotta filling:
    • 1/2 c (120 g) full fat ricotta cheese
    • 1½ Tbsp (30 g) honey
    • 1 large egg yolk
    • ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • ¼ tsp kosher salt
    • 1 tsp lemon zest
    • 1½ Tbsp (12 g) all-purpose flour
    For the walnut thyme streusel:
    • 1/3 c plus 1 Tbsp (50 g) all-purpose flour
    • 1/4 c (50 g) light brown sugar
    • 1/2 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves 
    • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
    • 3 Tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, cold and cubed
    • 2 Tbsp (25 g) chopped walnuts
    To finish:
    • 1 cup (240 g) seedless concord grapes (or similar variety), halved if large
    • 2 Tbsp (40 g) warm honey, for glazing, plus more for drizzling
    • Fresh thyme leaves, for garnish

    Method:

    1. Make the danish dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine 1 cup (125 grams) flour, ⅓ cup (67 grams) sugar, salt, and yeast.
    2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter over medium heat until an instant-read thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm milk mixture to flour mixture, and beat at medium-low speed until combined. Add 1 egg (50 grams), beating until combined. With mixer on low speed, gradually add 2½ cups (313 grams) flour, beating just until combined and stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
    3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat at low speed until a soft, somewhat sticky dough forms, 5 to 7 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining ½ cup (62 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky. Cover and let rise  until slightly puffed, 10 to 15 minutes.
    4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and lightly dust with flour.
    5. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Shape into a 9-inch square, and place on prepared pan. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours.
    6. Prepare the butter block: Using a permanent marker, draw an 8-inch square on a sheet of parchment paper; turn parchment over. Place remaining 1 cup (227 grams) butter on prepared parchment. Cover with a second sheet of parchment, and shape butter to fit inside drawn square, keeping edges straight and even. Keep wrapped in parchment paper, and refrigerate for 2 hours.
    7. Freeze dough for 15 minutes; let butter block stand at room temperature until pliable, about 15 minutes.
    8. Laminate the dough: On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch square. Unwrap butter block, and place on dough so corners of butter block touch center of sides of dough. Fold dough over butter block, meeting in middle, and press lightly to seal dough around butter block. Straighten dough and immediately roll into an 18×12-inch rectangle. Fold each short end to meet in center; fold in half. Turn dough 90 degrees, and roll out again. Repeat folding. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1½ hours; freeze for 30 minutes. (See Notes.)
    9. While dough is resting, make the ricotta filling and walnut thyme streusel. To make the ricotta filling, whisk together all ingredients until combined (for smoothest filling, pulse in a food processor). Transfer to a piping bag and refrigerate until ready to use.
    10. To make the walnut thyme streusel, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, thyme, and salt in a small bowl. Scatter the cold, cubed butter over the top. Use your fingertips to rub the butter into the dry ingredients until moist clumps form. Mix in the walnut pieces. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
    11. Shape, proof, and bake the danishes: Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 17×13-inch rectangle. Trim ½ inch off each side so rectangle is 16×12 inches. Cut dough in half lengthwise, and return one half to pan. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Cut remaining dough lengthwise into six 12″ x 1⅓” strips.
    12. In a small bowl, whisk together 1 teaspoon (5 grams) water and remaining 1 egg (50 grams).
    13. Brush a strip with egg wash. Twist strip; shape into a coil, making sure to keep it flat. Tuck end under, and place on prepared pan. Repeat with remaining strips. Brush shaped pastries with egg wash. Repeat with second half of dough.
    14. Let pastries rise in a warm, draft-free place (75-80°F/24-26°C) until danishes are puffy and jiggly and the layers are very noticeable. This may take as little as 20-30 minutes or as much as 1-2 hours, depending on how long it takes you to shape your pastries and the warmth of your kitchen.
    15. While pastries are rising, position oven rack in middle of oven. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
    16. Right before baking, brush pastries with a second coat of egg wash. Pipe a generous tablespoon of ricotta filling in the center of each danish. Press several grapes into the filling and sprinkle with a generous tablespoon of walnut thyme streusel. (Don’t skimp — the pastries will expand in the oven and you want to have plenty of filling and streusel in each one.)
    17. Bake, one batch at a time, until just starting to brown, 8-10 minutes. Rotate pan, and reduce oven temperature to 375°F (190°C). Bake until deep golden brown, 10-15 minutes more. (See Notes.) (Increase oven temperature to 425°F [220°C] before baking second batch.) Brush the grapes and exposed pastry with warmed honey. Serve warm or at room temperature, drizzling with additional honey and sprinkling with fresh thyme leaves just before eating, if desired. Best served same day but can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days. (See Notes.)

    Notes:

    • If you want to serve these for breakfast or an early brunch, instead of refrigerating for 1½ hours and then freezing for 30 minutes, just refrigerate overnight (no need to freeze).
    • Some ovens bake the bottoms darker than others, place a second pan under prepared pan when baking to prevent overbrowning. Not sure how your oven will bake? Can test with one on a sheet pan or just go ahead and double pan just to be safe.
    • Reheat stored Danish in a 350°F (180°C) oven before eating.

    Summer Fruit Pie with Spiced Streusel Topping

    Posted on by Ruth
    fruit streusel pie

    Nothing is more quintessentially summer to me then a morning of fruit picking followed by an afternoon of pie-making. Despite an overall wacky 2020 so far, I’m thankful that we’ve still been able to make it out to the orchards. Candy-like strawberries, plump cherries, deeply hued blueberries, and blushing peaches — I love them all.

    When we inevitably pick a little too much to eat out of hand (which is becoming increasingly rare — my kids are fruit fiends!), pie is the answer. I usually make one regular pie, then let my kids play with the pie dough scraps to form mini pies. When there aren’t enough scraps for a full top crust, I toss on a bit of crumb topping. Once, while enjoying one of these “scrap” pies, my husband asked me, with a twinge of guiltiness, “Is it wrong if I like crumb topped pies more than double crust ones?”

    I had to laugh because I’ve suspected for awhile (and my very scientific IG polls confirm) that crumb-topped pies are the secret fan favorite. While we might ooh and ahh over intricate double-crust beauties, the crumb pies are always the first to disappear.

    Now I personally love a double crust, especially a la mode. But I totally understand the appeal of a crumb topping. It’s an extra layer of texture and sweetness, and another opportunity to sneak in more flavors — spices, nuts, oats, and so on. Plus, I think crumb-topped pies keep better than double crust. I love a slice cold from the fridge after the topping has crisped up. All that to say — it’s high time for this streusel topped pie recipe!

    streusel pie pre bake
    A few notes:
    • Fruit preparation and amounts: It can be tricky estimating how much fruit you’ll need for a pie. I don’t think approximate numbers of fruits are very helpful because it all depends on the size of your fruit! My sweet spot for summer fruit pies (using a typical 9-inch pie plate) is roughly 1 kg (or between 2 and 2 1/2 pounds) of prepared fruit — i.e. the fruit is skinned (if needed), pitted, and sliced/chopped. So if you’re baking with something like blueberries which can be used as-is, you can just weigh the fruit directly. If you’re using something like peaches which need skinning and de-pitting, you’ll want to start with a bit more, maybe 3 1/2 pounds. When filling the dish, I’m looking for the fruit to come up to the crimps with enough to slightly mound in the center. Fruit shrinks in the oven, so this ensures a nicely filled pie after baking. For large fruits like peaches and nectarines, I slice into 1/4″ slices; large berries I halve or quarter; small berries I leave whole.
    • Pie thickeners: My personal favorite thickener for juicy fruits is arrowroot starch — it’s clear when cooked and has the least “gloopy” taste compared to cornstarch and tapioca starch. There’s a mix of art and science when it comes to thickeners, as well as personal taste. I like my pie slices to hold their shape once the pie has fully cooled, but not to be overly jelly-like. King Arthur Baking has a helpful pie thickener chart and their suggested amounts are usually pretty on for my tastes (if anything, I use just a touch less). The amount of starch below worked perfectly for both an all-peach pie and a pie with a mix of nectarines and blueberries.
    • Streusel tips: My favorite way to make streusel is with cold butter. I like the resulting texture, and the crumbs hold their shape better than streusel made with melted or room temperature butter. Keep your streusel in the fridge and don’t put it on the pie until just before you’re ready to bake — if the butter warms up, the streusel will flatten and spread. I like streusels that are roughly 1 to 1.5 : 1 : 1 ratio of flour + add-ins : sugar : butter, which results in a shortbread-like texture with mild sweetness. You can keep it as simple as all purpose flour, white sugar, and butter (and please, just a pinch of salt!); but I love having a bit of fun with my streusels. Here I’ve added oats, almond flour, and a touch of warm spices.
    • Bake your pie fully! If you’ve ever struggled with soggy bottoms and pies that don’t set up, you’re probably not baking your pie long enough. In general, with the amount of fruit I use, my full-size fruit pies rarely take under an hour to fully cook — usually closer to 70-80 minutes. You’re looking for the filling to bubble in the very center of the pie (where it takes the longest to cook). Thickeners don’t activate properly unless the liquid reaches a boil, so if the center of your pie isn’t bubbling your pie probably won’t set up. Be patient and tent your pie with some foil if the top is browning too fast.
    • Cool your pie fully! Likewise, if you’re wanting clean slices, you’ll have to let the pie cool down fully — about 4 hours. Now between you and me, if the pie is just for family, I’m not waiting quite that long — I don’t mind a messy slice, and fresh warm pie + a scoop of melting ice cream is one of life’s great pleasures. But even at home, I try to wait at least 2 hours so that the juices don’t completely run all over the place and I don’t burn my tongue.
    • Pie crusts and extra tips: My go-to pie crust recipe and method will be in my book, but I love this one or this sourdough option. For even more pie tips, see this post.

    Summer Fruit Pie with Spiced Streusel Topping

    Makes one 9″ pie

    Ingredients

    • Enough pie dough for a single 9″ crust, homemade or store bought (see notes above)
    For the spiced streusel topping:
    • 100g (3/4 c) flour, all-purpose or whole grain
    • 20g almond flour
    • 30g (1/3 c) rolled oats
    • 100g sugar (1/2 c) — I like half granulated, half brown
    • 3/4 tsp ground cinnamon
    • 3/4 tsp ground ginger
    • 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
    • 1/4 tsp ground allspice
    • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
    • 98g (7 Tbsp) unsalted butter, cold and cubed
    For the stone fruit filling:
    • About 1 kg (2.2 lbs / 7-8 cups) prepared summer fruit (see notes above)
    • 50 to 100g (1/4 to 1/2 c) sugar, or to taste
    • 50g (6 Tbsp) arrowroot or cornstarch (see notes above)
    • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
    • 30g (2 Tbsp) bourbon (or 1 Tbsp lemon juice)

    To assemble:

    • 1 Tbsp almond flour or cookie crumbs, or 1 tsp each all purpose flour and sugar

    Method

    1. Prepare the pie crust: On a floured surface, roll the dough into a 13- to 14-inch round between ¼- to ⅛-inch thick. Roll from the center out, giving the dough a quarter turn after every roll to avoid sticking and ensure an even thickness. Dust off any excess flour. Carefully roll the dough onto the rolling pin and unfurl into a standard 9-inch pie plate. Gently lift the edges and press the dough into the bottom and sides of the plate, being careful not to stretch the dough to fit. Trim the overhang to 1 inch all around, then fold the excess dough under itself to form a border. The edge should be flush with the pie plate. Crimp the edges as desired. Cover and chill until the pastry is firm, at least 30 minutes.
    2. Preheat the oven: While the crust is chilling, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) with a rack in the lower third. If you have a baking steel or stone, preheat that as well. If not, preheat a large foil-lined baking sheet.
    3. Prepare the streusel topping: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, oats, sugar, spices, and salt. Scatter the cold butter pieces over the top. Use your fingers to rub the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles a clumpy cookie dough with no dry bits of flour remaining. Refrigerate until needed.
    4. Prepare the fruit filling: Place the prepared fruit in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, arrowroot starch, and salt (this helps prevent the starch from clumping). Sprinkle the sugar mixture over the fruit and stir until combined. Add the bourbon and stir to combine.
    5. Assemble and bake the pie: Remove the prepared crust from the fridge and place on a foil-lined baking sheet (unless the sheet is pre-heating in the oven — see notes above). Sprinkle the almond flour over the bottom — this helps absorb extra juices and keep the crust from getting soggy. Scrape the fruit filling (and all the juices) into the crust. Sprinkle the streusel mixture evenly over the top. Bake for 30 minutes, then turn down the temperature to 350F and continue baking until the filling is bubbling in the very center and the streusel is deeply golden, about 35-55 more minutes. Cool to room temperature before slicing, about 4 hours. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 4 days.

    Berry buckwheat crumb bars

    Posted on by Ruth
    berry crumb bars

    Crumb bars, crumble bars, streusel bars — whatever you call them, I’m a fan. Mostly because they belong to my favorite food category, rustic fruit bressert (that’s breakfast and/or dessert).

    COVID lockdown has made it extra challenging this year to keep track of the date, but thankfully the seasons still change. We are in the middle of berry season here in Ontario. And while I wasn’t sure if our annual traditions of strawberry and cherry picking would be possible this year, happily we managed to do both.

    My family loves fresh fruit like candy, so I wasn’t sure I’d be able to actually make anything with the berries. But I squirreled away just enough to make these delightful berry crumb bars. I had some for breakfast and some for dessert and can confirm they go down equally well for either.

    A few notes:
    • As with most fruit desserts, I love adding some wholegrain flour for extra flavor. If you don’t have buckwheat on hand, try rye, einkorn, or spelt! Or just substitute with more all-purpose if you don’t have any whole grains stocked.
    • For the filling, I used a mix of (very ripe) strawberries, cherries, and some miscellaneous frozen berries that I had lurking in the freezer. I fully defrosted the frozen berries and drained off the extra liquid to avoid a soggy crust.
    • Because my fruit was mostly quite ripe and juicy, I didn’t need to add much sweetener. If your fruit isn’t so ripe, adjust the sugar to taste or try mixing with a little jam.
    berry crumb bars stacked

    Berry buckwheat crumb bars

    Makes one 8×8 pan

    Ingredients:

    For the crumb mixture:
    • 190g (1 1/2 c) all purpose flour
    • 60g (1/2 c) buckwheat flour
    • 1 tsp kosher salt
    • 50g (1/4 c) granulated sugar
    • 50g (1/4 c) light brown sugar
    • 200g (14 T) unsalted butter, cold and cubed
    • 30g (1/3 c) rolled oats
    • 30g (1/4 c) sliced almonds (or other chopped nuts)
    • 30g (2 Tbsp) turbinado sugar
    For the fruit filling:
    • 400g (~2 1/2 c) mixed berries, finely diced (if frozen, thaw and drain before using — see notes above)
    • 13g (1 Tbsp) sugar (or to taste)
    • 12g (1 1/2 Tbsp) cornstarch
    • Pinch of salt
    • Squeeze of lemon juice

    Method:

    1. Preheat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the middle. Line an 8 x 8-inch pan with two long criss-crossed pieces of parchment, leaving a couple of inches of overhang on all sides. (This will make it easy to remove the bars later.) Lightly grease the parchment.
    2. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flours, salt, and sugars. Pulse to combine. Scatter the cold, cubed butter over the top. Pulse until the mixture forms clumps but is not completely smooth (this took me about 20-25 short pulses).
    3. Transfer about a third (~180g) of the mixture to a separate bowl. Add the oats, almonds, and turbinado sugar and use your fingertips to quickly pinch in, forming a clumpy streusel. Refrigerate until needed.
    4. Transfer the remaining two-thirds (~360g) of the mixture to the prepared pan. Use your fingers or the bottom of a small glass or measuring cup to press the crumbs evenly into the bottom of the pan. Prick all over with a fork. Bake for about 10-15 minutes, or until just set. Transfer to a wire rack while you prepare the fruit filling (no need to let it cool completely).
    5. To make the filling, stir together the fruit, sugar, cornstarch, salt, and lemon juice. Spoon the fruit mixture evenly over the par-baked crust, then sprinkle evenly with the reserved streusel mixture.
    6. Bake until the crumb topping is golden and the fruit juices are bubbling in the center, about 45-50 minutes. Allow to cool completely on a wire rack before slicing (for cleanest results, chill for an hour in the refrigerator). Refrigerate leftover bars in an airtight container for up to 5 days; serve cold or at room temperature.

    Peach Crisp Ice Cream

    Posted on by Ruth
    peach crisp ice cream in container

    Before we round the corner into September (!!), I have one last ice cream recipe for you. Churning frozen treats has definitely been my summer 2019 obsession — I’ve been making frozen yogurt, sorbet, sherbet, eggless ice creams, and custard ice creams as fast as we can consume or share each batch. It’s just so addicting (and delicious)!

    I’ve especially enjoyed trying to incorporate various seasonal fruits into ice cream. While either sorbet or an eggless (“Philadelphia”) ice cream base has been my modus operandi when incorporating fruit — I find the lack of eggs helps the fruit flavor shine through better — this time I was going for a peaches and cream vibe and wanted a bit of extra richness. I used the same buttermilk custard base from the toast and jam ice cream, but added in a honey-sweetened roasted peach puree. Swirls of peach jam amp up the “peachiness” while sprinkles of crisp oat streusel add texture and nuttiness. It’s like eating a peach crisp a la mode!

    A few notes:

    • This makes a fairly large batch of ice cream — probably the largest amount my home ice cream maker can handle. If you have a smaller machine you will want to churn in two batches (or reduce the recipe by 25-30%).
    • The oat streusel recipe is adapted from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home and makes way more than you need for this batch of ice cream. But! It freezes beautifully and I have absolutely loved having a big batch on hand to layer in other ice creams / sprinkle on sundaes / snack on. So I definitely recommend just making the full batch and patting yourself on the back later.
    • My favorite containers for storing ice cream are these Cambro 1-quart Poly Rounds. They don’t take up a lot of room in the freezer and they’re the perfect size for a typical home batch. But you can use a loaf pan, empty yogurt container, or similarly-sized freezer-safe vessel. Whatever container you choose, I recommend sticking it in the freezer while you are churning your ice cream to help minimize melting!
    peach crisp ice cream in cone

    Peach Crisp Ice Cream

    Makes a generous 1 quart | Inspired by Salt & Straw and Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home

    Ingredients:

    For the buttermilk custard base:
    • 1/2 c + 2 Tbsp / 125g granulated sugar
    • 2 Tbsp dry milk powder
    • 1/4 tsp xanthan gum
    • 4 large egg yolks
    • 2 Tbsp / 40g light corn syrup
    • 1 1/2 c heavy cream
    • 1 1/2 c buttermilk
    • 1/4 tsp kosher salt
    For the roasted peach puree:
    • 12 oz ripe peaches, pitted and chopped
    • 80g (1/4 c) honey
    For the crisp oat streusel:
    • 227g cold, unsalted butter, cut into 1/2″ cubes
    • 188g AP flour (swap in whole grain if you’d like)
    • Pinch of ground cinnamon
    • 150g light brown sugar
    • 1 tsp kosher salt
    • 135g old-fashioned rolled oats
    To finish:
    • ~1/2 c peach jam, homemade or store-bought

    Method:

    1. Make the buttermilk custard base: Combine the cream and buttermilk in a large measuring cup.
    2. Combine 100g (1/2 c) of sugar, dry milk powder, and xanthan gum in a small bowl and whisk well. In a large bowl, combine the egg yolks and remaining 25g (2 T) sugar and whisk until the yolks are lighter in color, about 1 minute.
    3. In a medium pot, combine the corn syrup and half (1 1/2 c) of the buttermilk/cream mixture. Add the sugar mixture and immediately whisk vigorously until smooth. Set the pot over medium heat and cook stirring often and adjusting the heat if necessary to prevent a simmer, until the sugar has fully dissolved (about 3 minutes). Remove the pot from the heat. Start whisking the yolk mixture and continue to whisk constantly while slowly drizzling the hot liquid into the yolks.
    4. Scrape the entire mixture back into the pot and cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (it should register ~170F on a digital thermometer). Strain into a heatproof and airtight container and whisk in the remaining buttermilk/cream mixture. Cover and refrigerate until well-chilled, at least 6 hours and up to 1 week.
    5. Make the peach puree: Preheat oven to 350F. Spread the chopped peaches in a single layer on a quarter-sheet baking pan lined with parchment paper. Drizzle with honey.
    6. Bake peaches for about 30-40 minutes, stirring every 10-15 minutes, until the released juices have thickened. (The peaches shouldn’t be browned at all.) Remove from oven and allow to cool to room temperature. When cool, scrape the peaches and all the syrupy juices into a food processor or blender. Blend until smooth. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until cold.
    7. Make the crisp oat streusel: Preheat oven to 350F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
    8. In a large bowl, whisk together the all dry ingredients except the oats. Add the cubed, chilled butter and rub it into the dry mixture with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Add the oats and stir to combine well. Spread the mixture in a single layer onto the prepared baking sheet, aiming for clumps about 1/4″-1/2″ in size.
    9. Bake for 30-35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until toasted and browned. Cool completely on a wire rack, then freeze in a ziplock bag or airtight container until ready to use.
    10. Churn the ice cream: Whisk 1/4 tsp kosher salt and chilled peach puree into the chilled buttermilk base. Churn according to the instructions for your machine, until the mixture has the texture of soft serve. Transfer to a freezer-friendly container, alternating with dollops of peach jam and generous sprinklings of oat streusel. Cover with parchment paper, pressing it to the surface of the ice cream so it adheres, then cover with a lid. Freeze until firm, at least 6 hours. Ice cream will keep for up to 3 months.